The third-class cars are an open space, which breaks down social barriers and offers passengers an opportunity to meet and converse with others. The head of the Russian railway company announced it will phase out platskart, or third class. The ticket from Moscow to Vladivostok costs more than $1,000 in first class, almost $600 in kupe or second class and $400 in platzkart or third class.Īngelika Podobina, the provodnitsa, is in charge of one train car and spends half her life onboard the train. Trains 1 and 2, better known as the Trans-Siberian, link Moscow to Vladivostok in seven days. Yaroslavsky Station, Moscow: These demobilized soldiers are about to step aboard train number 2, the famous Trans-Siberian. Trains 1 and 2 proudly wear the colours of the Russian flag. With its 128,000 kilometres of track, Russia’s train network is one of the largest in the world. Translation Evguenia Kossogova, Genevieve Oger.Multimedia Design and Production Daniel Herrera-Castillo.Photos Jean-François Bélanger, Alexey Sergeev.Whatever the weather, everyone gets out at every stop to smoke a cigarette on the platform or stretch their legs. During the evening, pyjama-clad travellers loiter in the gangways in their tapochkis (slippers), often lightly dressed given the extreme heat in the train, summer or winter. Practicality dictates the same dress code for all. If you follow her through the cars, you can really see how this train breaks down class barriers, despite the existence of three distinct classes: lux (two berths per compartment), kupe (four berths) and platzkart (third-class open space). She’s a patriot and proud of working on this iconic train. “It’s hard on family life,” Angela admits, but adds that she wouldn’t change anything even if she could. The schedules are tough: 12 hours a day, seven days a week. One month at a time, she goes back and forth between Moscow and Vladivostok. Relaxing is a luxury Angelika Podobina, our car’s provodnitsa, can’t afford. Otherwise China, Japan or Korea would probably have annexed this part of the country. Clutching the trans-Siberian guide, he explains that the train allowed Russia to colonize its far-East, unify its territory and send soldiers eastward. Their Russian is limited to a few words, but “it doesn’t mean we aren’t understood,” they say enthusiastically.ĭean is also a budding historian. They chose a four-berth compartment on purpose, hoping to meet others. Frozen Exoticismįoreigners like Natalie and Dean Smart occupy the two lower berths in the compartment next to Boris’s. “Only foreigners attempt the entire route from Moscow to Vladivostok.

He’d rather disconnect, think about time passing and reflect on his life. He sees speed and trains as incompatible. In his view, it’s nothing more than a vulgar bus on rails. He savours the gentle roll of the train and snubs his nose at the SAPSAN, the fast train that links Moscow to St. Like vodka, it naturally lubricates every conversation. Posted near the chainik, the large tea kettle, this travelling salesman with a distinct heavy metal look has a lot to say about the beverage, a key component of any Russian train trip. The Virtue of Slownessīoris Piaterikov is a regular. The provodnitsa, carriage attendants in navy uniforms, welcome passenger aboard at the entrance of each car. It’s the legendary Trans-Siberian, the pride of the Russian railway company. A metallic voice crackles through the loudspeakers: The “Rossiya” headed to Vladivostok will be departing from platform two in 20 minutes.

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